Open Category: 5/14
I’d like to first state that I’m not crazy – 5/14 is nothing to feel ashamed about. But, I admit I did feel disappointed. I tried so many problems without accomplishing anything. I had a ton of fun trying routes, but our score doesn’t reflect how many routes we try and almost get – it only reflects the routes we send.
What it came down to was strategy, and my lack of. Your final score counts your 6 best problems, and there were 40 problems. 1-13 were beginner routes, and 25-40 were expert routes. My range of routes to project would fall around 13-25, which is quite a small window if you think about it. Ideally, you want to find routes that you think you can get and work them until you do. 13-18 were quite easy as well, and I ended up flashing them all except for 17 which took me two attempts. From there on, I had a lot of trouble.
I tried 19 many times, made some progress, then plateaud. The guys came over and said it was simply too reachy, but I really wanted to get it anyway so I tried it again a few more times.
Other routes turned out the same. 20 and 21 had a really awkward move I couldn’t get, even though the beginning and the finish seemed quite do-able and more my style. 21 had a tricky dyno that kept ripping my fingers, but didn’t stop me from trying anyway. 28 was incredibly fun, and involved climbing in the corner with your back to the wall until you’re about 10 ft off the ground, and have to pull out on a ladder of pinches. Grabbing the first pinch was fine, but matching with a toe hook on a lower pinch proved too difficult for me.
I was trying routes left, right and center! My strategy was to climb everything I could – I tried many different ones, many times, until I found myself with nothing hard to mark down on my score card.
Seb, on the other hand, had a great competition. When I spoke to him an hour in, he wasn’t doing so well. He hadn’t really tried anything hard yet, but he said he wasn’t feeling his strongest, which is how I was feeling. An hour later, he had checked off 4 of the hardest routes and was about to go on to send #40. Needless to say he placed first. Show off.
All competitions are fun even if I am somewhat disappointed in my performance. But that’s learning! You make mistakes, you learn, and you do better next time. Our next competition is our fun local, halloween competition. I’ll work on my strategy in the best way possible – dressed up like a teletubby.
climb on xx