Bloc Shop CEC National Series Recap

Results: 28th – 0 Top/4 Bonuses in 4 Attempts

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I thought I would recap my competition a little differently this time as this one is #3 out of 4 in a row. Everyone loves variety! So, instead of lengthy paragraphs and rambling thoughts, here’s what my Saturday competition day looked like in time-schedule format. Enjoy 🙂

7:00am: Wake up and shower.

8:00am: Eat homemade breakfast instead of hotel breakfast. I had scrambled eggs, yogurt, a croissant, and my classic green tea!

8:30am: Leave hotel for Bloc Shop.

9:00am: Arrive and enter isolation right away. The incessant nervous pee breaks begin.

10:00am: Group meeting begins and rules are discussed. I always listen in case an important rule is changed. Climbing can be heavily dependent on acute details. Sometimes you need only touch a bonus hold – other times you need only establish stabilization. Ya never really know!

10:45am: Carlie is called out to climb. Her warm-up began soon after entering isolation. She’s usually one of the first to climb at competitions like these. There’s ups and down to going early!

11:00am: My limb swings begin, because I’m getting anxious just sitting around.

11:15am: Shawn is called out to climb.

11:20am: I begin traversing on easier stuff, I do more arm and leg swings, and then move into big reaches and moving around on smaller holds.

11:45am: Snack time, yay! One apple and one granola bar. My energy drink is also consumed at this time. I never finish the whole thing – I usually only drink half of my Red Bull and then pass it on to someone else. However, I didn’t have anyone left to pass it on to this time 🙁  I’m not a coffee drinker so my tolerance to caffeine is low; it definitely puts a little pep in my step. 

12:35pm: Finally my climbing time has arrived. I am called out and first I sit facing away from the problems just on the other side of isolation. The cheering for other competitors really gets me AMPED.

12:40pm: Problem #1 begins! The first move looked so neat: three huge slopey volumes up to a death star looking feature. It took me 3 tries to jump and catch the inverted part of the feature with my left hand slapping the slopey surface. Unfortunately, my time ran out as I was figuring out the last sequence to the finish. I truly regret not sending this one – it would have taken more wiggling around but I think I could have gotten it!

12:39pm: Shoe breaks as my rest time is coming to an end and I’m preparing for problem #2. Serves me right, I needed a new pair months ago! Shawn was nearby so I yelled over to borrow his. Thanks buddy! World crisis avoided. 

12:40pm: Problem #2: I looked at this route and concurred that it was my anti-style. I somehow made it up a few moves to get the bonus first attempt, but I couldn’t quite figure out the balancy beta for the finish. I would have loved to give this one another shot after the comp. 

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Problem #2

12:50pm: Problem #3: Awkward start that I found out later was much easier if you started facing away from the wall. I managed to get to the the last move on my first attempt, but I made a rash decision to jump for the finish jug instead of getting a high heel because I was feeling quite pumped. This is another one that haunts me because I felt so solid on it until the 2nd last slopey hold. I enjoyed this one too.

1:00pm: Problem #4: Another balancy route with a burly finish. I managed to scramble up past the bonus a few times, but got stuck working around a slopey pinch to a high jug finish. There was another slopey pinch way out right that I couldn’t figure out how to use. I couldn’t reach the 2nd pinch nor the foot underneath which puzzled me as well. I didn’t get a chance to see anyone finish this route so I’m still left confused on how it goes! It was neat though – the first move was my anti-style as well, so I’m really happy I had no trouble with it.

1:10pm: Problem #5: I waited all day for a route like this, and I just didn’t have the strength. This one was big moves to decent holds while pulling a roof. I could barely hold the big holds to begin with, so I knew I was in for some trouble. I failed to see some good beta that would have made it a lot simpler for me to grab the bonus, so I was left literally hanging trying to swing my legs over to a foot hold. I eventually got my left foot over, but didn’t have a great place for my right so as soon as I crossed over to the bonus hold, I slipped off.

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Problem #5

1:30pm – 3:00pm: Climb more on the public side of the gym, despite skin and muscles telling me not to.

3:00pm: Drive back to Fredericton.

Overall, I did much better than last year and at least progressed up 4 out of 5 routes quite well! I had an awesome time and I left in a good mood. I’m getting better at finding the positives, and refocusing my frustration towards isolating weaknesses and focusing on bettering them. It’s just such a treat visiting the Bloc Shop anyway. I wish I could climb there all the time 🙂

This weekend we are off to Seven Bays in Halifax for a Tour de Bloc competition. I’m loving all these comps, but my skin and body cannot wait for a break. I’m also very aware of what I need to work on, so I am also finding some new excitement for training 🙂 Good things are coming!

Climb on xx