Competition 4 out of 4 is now complete! If I ever had the urge to commit a crime, right now would be the perfect opportunity as I don’t have any fingerprints left on my hands. Although I absolutely love competitions, I am looking forward to taking a small break to get back to training and grow my skin back. We’ve never attempted four competitions back to back before and I rather enjoyed it; I could have done without the long car drives, though.
What a weekend! The @eastcoastclimbers from UNB Rock & Ice ALL made finals and crushed along with some super strong competitors from @sevenbays and @up_the_bloc ! I somehow managed to snag 1st place for women by 1 attempt, with @krista_jean_ at a close second, and @wilsonkacy representing Ontario in 3rd. Seb took 1st place for men, with @florentbalsez of Ontario in 2nd, and @kilgour22 of Halifax in 3rd. Thanks to all the staff and volunteers at Seven Bays Bouldering who made this comp a success. You all crushed it! #climbing #bouldering #competition #compseason #sevenbays #halifax #tourdebloc #tdb4life #unbrockandice #eastcoastclimbers #team #sport #send #crush #allez #pullonplastic
I hesitated the morning of the comp on whether or not I should compete. I had been grappling with illness for a couple of days prior and was still not feeling my best. Oddly enough when I was bouncing back and forth between bailing and riding on, I thought back to last year’s comp when another competitor said they had an awful cold, but competed anyway. They ended up beating me and winning the whole thing, so if they could push through why couldn’t I? That motivated me to climb anyway, even though I felt like a bag of garbage.
As the day went on, I started to feel increasingly better. My warm up was a little shaky – I hadn’t done any physical activity all week due to soreness and illness so I felt weak, but that wore off when I started to enjoy myself. Seven Bays is about half overhung, half slab/vertical. The slab always seems busier and I of course prefer it less, so I stuck around the “barrel”. I managed to send a few hard problems there, and then moved on to slab. I ended up in 4th after qualifiers, with top 6 moving on to finals. I was still feeling pretty good, so I was excited to compete in another round!
Finals consisted of 3 problems: one vertical, one slab, and one overhung problem. I did well on the vertical problem, although I could have just as easily greased off the finish hold. The slab problem actually was my favourite, and it still would have been my favourite if I hadn’t sent it. It consisted of a starter hold, and then several small volumes with foot holds to which you had to run on to eventually jump and grab the bonus. It took me 8 tries to even stick the bonus, and then luckily I figured out the rest of the route in one try because it was do or die at that point! The third problem was quite easy, although it made me nervous going into it because it was a burly route and it happened to be the last one. After I flashed it, I was told I didn’t start with 4 points of contact, but they gave it to me anyway because they didn’t pull me off the wall at the start. I felt bad about contesting that one, but I feel like most people in my position would have done the same? (hopefully).
It took 8 tries and 10 seconds left on the clock to finally stick this jump move, and then luckily I figured out the rest! 🎉 I managed a 2nd place finish this weekend, but am so proud of @carliejod and Sebastian for taking first place, and @emily_cote_4 and Francois for crushing hard at their first comp of the season 👊Thanks @sevenbays for hosting such a baller comp, and props to @denzclimb and the crew for a fantastic set. You guys never disappoint! 📸: also thanks @searle1989 for not only taking pictures and video, but for your encouragement in the crowd!! #climbing #competition #escalade #bouldering
Funny enough, Carlie beat me by one attempt! We both flashed problems 1 and 3, but she sent the 2nd problem in 7 tries, and I sent it in 8 tries. It was a nail biter! Goes to show how important it is to have your beta straightened before you start, and to keep your focus locked on the route. We all worked so hard in finals, it was such a good crew to be with. I walked away in 2nd place with 125$ and a free Lululemon sports bra (which I bought the very next day, hello). New Brunswick had 3 people on the podium, Ontario had 2, and Nova Scotia had 1. It says a lot about a gym when outsiders show up to a comp!
And Seven Bays did not disappoint! The routes were awesome and the crowd was absolutely amped. You’d be surprised how far you can push yourself when you have an audience of people screaming at you to succeed. I know that when I’m in the audience, I’m cheering for everyone to crush. I do gotta say though, it’s nice to be on the receiving end of that once in awhile :).
With the fun out of the way, it’s time to get back to training. We’ve got to prep for our next competition in mid January and then for the ultimate goal of Nationals in March. But until then, I will be figuring out a way to stop pumping out at the top of routes. Lots of work to be done! 🙂
Climb on xx